Surfer cant decide between foamie and short board in 1ft surf.

A local surfer by the name of Baz, was about to jump in for a surf with his mates on a typical 1ft summers days in Hossegor. His mates jumped on foamies and began to paddle out to the lineup. Baz was hesitating, he has his 5’10 shortboard in one hand, and was looking at a 8ft foamie lying on the ground next to him.

“There could be a few fun ones for shortboarding” he thought. “I rekon I could get a nice turn on that one!” he said to himself as he saw a set role in. Baz paddled out to his mates on the 5’10 shortboard. “here we go!” he thought to himself.  

Baz proceeded to float around on his short board, while his mates easily caught wave after wave on their foamies. They were taking party waves, doing board transfers, fakie takies, and all round just having an epic time on their foamies.

Finally a decent set wave came to him, he thought to himself “you beauty!” He paddled his arms off to try and get it. After a turbulent display of furious paddling he finally managed to catch the wave, stand up, frantically jump up and down on his front foot then bog rail.

Meanwhile his foamie friends continued to cruise past on little 1ft peeling gems. Baz, like many of us have done before, had made the wrong decision. Not to fret, after a quick paddle in, board swap, and paddle out, Baz was having the time of his life with his foamie homies. Like the great Rob Machado once said, “foam is your friend”.

surfer-in-hossegor.jpg